Starting the day in that perfect light, turning pink gold from that blue light. First a drive through The Troms Arctic Archipelago Kvaløya (Whale Island) on the 862, checking if we can spot some whales in that salty water and later some moose.
A moose walking is the animal kingdom’s version of "organised chaos." It’s a fascinating mix of extreme gangliness and surprising grace. If I had to boil it down, I’d call it leggy, rhythmic, and deceptively efficient.
Arctic Archipelago Scouting
Still hung over from the Northern lights, we drive further south over the E8. We pack the binoculars to see if we can get some insight on the snow conditions of our objective. Yes, it looks good; it looks all-time.
I tell my group about the cruxes of the walk up that day. Everyone gets interactive, making jokes as we prepare for the cold temperatures and the hardpack snow ahead.
The 5km Skintrack to the Summit
We make a 5km skintrack through the valley, crossing rivers a few times before we even reach the base of our climb. Struggling through the birches, keeping those crampons ready for that shiny little spot, the summit slowly reveals herself.
The fjords are getting smaller and everyone is finding that flow. Reindeer herds instead of people herds. Hearing nothing but the wind and the sounds of splitboarding—velcro ripping through technical pitches.
The snow is slowly turning into softer corn conditions as temps get warmer. We eat some snacks and have a sip of tea before we start our last splitboarding leg up.
1,500m Drop into the Flow
As we approach the steep section, we gear up with crampons and an ice axe to climb the final 40-degree slope over the ridge to our 1,500m high drop-in point.
Seeing all those glaciers and crevasses packed in a deep layer of snow, the views are breathtaking. Fjords and boats flicker below like a disco ball. Total concentration before the drop into a tight chute.
It all releases in that brief moment of flow—completely in sync with your gear, hearing your jacket snap in the wind, a steady whoosh resonating through your helmet.
Then the ride down to the car, cracking open a refreshing pale ale and eating a handful of nuts. Everybody looks happy, tired, and fulfilled. The peak and the drawn lines are staring back at us.
A pan-seared winter skrei awaits us, caught in the cold Arctic waters we just glanced upon. Another day in the Tromsø Archipelago done and dusted.
Back to reality: at 6 AM the snow plow is grinding the streets of Vorarlberg and waking me from my dream. Only 6 weeks to go until I can finally enjoy the quiet…
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